It’s good to be back in España! I’m pumped for another year of exploring this amazing country, starting with THE CAMINO. More on that in a bit.
First, allow me to gush about how supremely happy I am to NOT be looking for an apartment right now.
Since we signed for a second year on our place before we left in June, Taylor and I had our cozy little home waiting for us when we landed in Madrid last Wednesday. Ugh, I can’t tell you how grateful I am not to be dealing with the insane piso hunt this year. Several people on the Auxiliares’ Facebook page said they’ve been looking since the beginning of September without any luck.
Yep, paying two months rent during the summer was definitely worth it. I’ve just barely recovered from apartment hunting last fall.
You probably think I’m crazy to keep going back tho this, but it was for real the worst. The awfulness of piso hunting in Madrid cannot be overstated, in my humble opinion.
Speaking of things that are the actual worst, let’s talk about jet lag and how much it sucks.
Those two months in another time zone really did a number on me. The past couple of nights, I haven’t fallen asleep until 3 a.m. Today, I didn’t wake up until just after noon.
Stranger Things hasn’t helped. We’ve been watching a few episodes before bed, and although it’s totally amazing, it doesn’t really put me in the relaxing mindset necessary for a restful night’s sleep.
Even though it seems like we just got here, tomorrow is our last day in Madrid before Taylor and I fly north for a 10-day vacation!
Okay maybe *vacation* isn’t the right word…
We’re going to be hiking for eight days on the Camino de Santiago!
What is the Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago, or The Way of St. James, is a network of pilgrimage routes running across Europe. All the routes lead to the city of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain, where it is believed the remains of the saint are buried.
During the Middle Ages, the Camino was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages in the world. Christians came from all across Europe to see the final resting place of the Apostle Saint James, who was beheaded in Jerusalem in 42 AD.
The Camino is still pretty darn popular today. In 2015, over 262,000 pilgrims (that’s the name for individuals undertaking the Camino) made the journey and not all of them for religious reasons.
For many, the Camino is a personal journey. I’m looking forward to testing myself both physically and mentally. It’s said the Camino has life-changing power. To be honest, I just want to see if I can hike 125 miles in eight days.
In less than two weeks, I’m heading back to Spain for my second year as a language assistant.
After a summer at home during which I had ample time to reflect (mostly while working on my tan at the beach), there are a few things I’d like to share about my first year in Spain.
My experience teaching English and living abroad has, thus far, been overwhelmingly positive. I couldn’t be more excited to be heading back for round two. However, as is to be expected when you’re a human being living life, the year wasn’t without its challenges. Breaking news: life isn’t all rainbows and butterflies.
In the spirit of transparency, which is one of the things that first drew me to blogging, I’m putting it all out there and recapping the good, the bad and the lovely from my first year in Spain.
The day we signed on our apartment was one of relief and triumph. It would have been easy to settle for a property (in fact, we almost did), but we held out and found a place we now proudly call our home.
I love our apartment. Like seriously love it. Both our living room and bedroom have huge sliding glass doors that open up onto the cutest balconettes overlooking a park. We’ve got pretty parquet floors and a little breakfast bar that’s just perfect for two. Pictures of family and friends, stacks of books, our ever-growing magnet collection and a few potted plants give the apartment that personal touch.
It was a struggle, but we found our home away from home. After a long day, I feel so lucky to return to such a comfortable and cozy space.
I was attracted to the program because it was a surefire way for me to support myself and legally live in Spain. The job itself was irrelevant. I probably would have given garbage collecting a shot if it meant I could live in Madrid. A job is a job is a job. I figured I would put in my hours each week and be done with it. I expected not to like work (perhaps even hate it).
Imagine my surprise when a month into the school year I realized I was actually enjoying what I was doing. My friends and family couldn’t believe I, who have never been much of a “kid person,” liked working with children.
Teaching primary students, particularly first graders, is incredibly fulfilling. Really, they’re amazing little creatures. So hopeful and eager to learn. Even the hellish commute couldn’t get me too down because I knew I had two dozen smiling faces waiting for me at the end of it.
If that was too cheesy, I’m sorry, but it’s true! A year ago, I was slinging bras and panties at a department store. Today, I have the privilege of helping teach children language skills that will shape their future.
There’s a reason everyone loves Europe. My five-week backpacking trip after I graduated from college opened my eyes to all the wonders the continent holds. I’ve got a “must-visit” list in my Notes app, and it seems like every time I tick a place off, I add somewhere new.
This year, I visited:
Prague, Czech Republic
My favorite destination in Spain was Cordoba, which I visited with my family and Taylor over Christmas. I didn’t know much about the city going in and was impressed by its history. We took a fantastic guided tour that began in the city’s old Jewish quarter and finished in the spooky Alcázar which was used during the Spanish Inquisition. Cordoba, known for its whitewashed buildings adorned with colorful potted plants, is picture-perfect Andalusia. And of course, the La Mezquita, the city’s mosque-cathedral, is not to be missed.
My favorite destination outside of Spain was Budapest, Hungary. One of my college professors, who had spent some time teaching in a Hungarian university, peaked my interest in the city, and I’ve wanted to visit ever since. It didn’t disappoint. Why did I like it so much? Well, it’s hard to put my finger on it. The city is architecturally stunning. The people are friendly. The food (and wine) is delicious. The nightlife is the actual coolest. It’s all of those things, really. I just dug Budapest’s vibe. Sometimes a destination is exactly what you need exactly when you need it.
I did it! When I left Spain in the fall of 2014 after my three-month stint as an au pair, I promised myself that I would find a way to return. It wasn’t easy. The visa process was a headache, and the apartment hunting was a nightmare, but with everything I overcame, I gained a little more confidence. I’m not even 25 years old yet, and I’ve already realized one of my lifelong dreams: living abroad. I set my mind to something and made it happen. Woohoo, I’m a rockstar. If I can do this, what else is possible?
Turns out, the Madrid rental market is crazy competitive.
In our first few days, Taylor and I called nearly 100 places. I spent hours and hours scrolling through online listings. We’d walk up and down street after street in the afternoon heat craning our necks for “se alquila” signs. On three separate occasions, we had appointments to see a property, but upon arrival, we were told it was already taken.
It was incredibly frustrating to say the least especially after all the preparation I’d done. At my lowest point, I wondered if I’d made a mistake in coming to Spain. I cried myself to sleep that night because, if I couldn’t even find a damn apartment, how was I going to manage life abroad?!
Going into the program, I knew I would have to commute, so I was prepared for the 50 minutes to an hour it took me to get to school every Tuesday and Thursday. I used the commute time to read, listen to podcasts, check email, etc. In the morning, it was an opportunity to mentally prepare myself for the day. In the afternoon, it was a chance to decompress.
That actually sounds kind of nice, right?
On the other hand, my Wednesday and Friday commute was an absolute monster. Usually leaving the apartment around 7:20 a.m., I began my mornings with a frantic sprint around the corner to the bus stop. The bus took me to the metro station, and I rode the metro for 40 minutes. At 8:15 a.m., I was on another bus which dropped me off 40 minutes later about half a mile from my school. If everything ran smoothly, I’d walk into the classroom right around 9 a.m.
With so many moving parts though, my commute didn’t always go according to plan. The bus that took me to my school only ran once every hour. If I wasn’t on the bus at 8:15 a.m., which happened several times, I was SOL.
Getting home was a whole other nightmare. School ended at 2 p.m., but the bus didn’t come until 2:40 p.m. On a good day, it only took me 2 and a half hours to get home.
The Spanish are known for being extremely social, and after a year in Madrid, I definitely agree. It could be a random Tuesday in the dead of winter, and you’ll still find packed bars with Spaniards drinking copas until the wee hours of the morning.
However, Spaniards, in my experience, aren’t the type of people who will strike up a conversation with a stranger, especially a foreigner. To be honest, they’re a little cliquey. It can be intimidating to try and break in. Even when you do manage to break in, the Spanish are private people, which I relate to and respect. As it should be, friendship is a serious matter. While Spaniards are happy to make your acquaintance, a relationship with any depth takes significant time and effort to cultivate.
With our busy travel schedule, we didn’t leave ourselves a lot of free weekends to go out and meet people–Spanish or otherwise. When we did have time, there was often the language barrier to contend with. Making friends is tough and definitely not for the faint of heart.
Sharing every experience with Taylor
I put my own spin on the name of this post because, even on the worst days this year, nothing was ugly. Even when I was tired or homesick or actually sick, I was still waking up every morning in Spain. Even more than that, I was waking up next to my best friend and the love of my life.
Having someone to share your adventure with makes the good days even better and the bad days bearable. Taylor was my shoulder to cry on, my voice of reason and the best travel buddy anyone could ask for.
I thought we were close prior to moving to Spain, but this year brought us even closer. Separated from friends and family, we became each other’s everything. That’s a big test for a relationship, but I like to think we passed with flying colors. After this year, I know that no matter where I am in the world, I will feel at home as long as I’m with Taylor.
There you have it. The good, the bad and the lovely. What do you think? Should I do it all over again?
It’s no secret I fell in love with Spain when I lived here as an au pair in the fall of 2014. I was heartbroken when I wasn’t able to obtain a visa to extend my stay. Before I even left, I knew I had to find a way to get back here.
My friend Ellie, who I met during my au pair days, turned me on to the North American Language and Culture Assistants program. The program is run by the Spanish Ministry of Education, and within Spain, it is referred to as Auxiliares de Conversación.
I am eternally indebted to Ellie for opening my eyes to this program. It was–and continues to be–the perfect fit for me.
The program was established to combat Spain’s poor English proficiency, which is one of the lowest in western Europe. Every year the Ministry brings in thousands of native English speakers (primarily from the U.S. but from other countries as well) and places them in schools around Spain to serve as language assistants.
What exactly do language assistants do?
Being a language assistant isn’t the same as being a full-fledged teacher. I work alongside native Spanish teachers in English-language classrooms.
Duties vary from community to community, school to school and classroom to classroom, but overall, a language assistant’s responsibilities are to correct pronunciation, play games, give cultural presentations and just assist the school’s foreign language program in any way possible. I once heard auxiliares described as “walking, talking dictionaries.” Honestly, that’s fairly accurate. I like to think of myself as a face for the language the students are learning. I consider myself an ambassador for the English language and American culture.
Where do language assistants work?
Upon being accepted into the program, language assistants are placed in a participating Spanish community. Spain has 17 autonomous communities, but not all the communities take part in the program. The communities which accept the most auxiliares are Madrid, Galicia and Andalusia. I think there’s something crazy like 1,000 language assistants in Madrid.
Most language assistants work in either a primary school or secondary school. Primary schools cover infant education (starting at three years old) through sixth grade. Secondary schools cover the American-equivalent of seventh through tenth grade.
I work in two primary schools in the Community of Madrid. Between the two, I work with four-year-olds, five-year-olds, first graders, second graders, third graders and sixth graders.
By the way, my situation is a bit of an oddity. It’s rare for a language assistant to be placed in two schools. Most auxiliares have just one school. I’m super lucky, I guess.
What’s the schedule like? How ’bout them benefits?
I work 16 hours per week. That’s eight hours in each school. The school year begins in October and ends in June. As compensation for my time and effort, I receive 1,000 euros a month and health insurance.
In every community other than Madrid, language assistants work 12 hours per week from October through May. Since they’re working fewer hours, those assistants receive 700 euros per month in addition to health insurance. The 1,000 euros per month in Madrid is to accommodate a higher cost of living
The pay is more than livable, and health insurance is swell, but the best part of the whole gig is I have three-day weekends. No Mondays for this girl. I work Tuesday through Friday, which leaves me plenty of time to travel on the weekends or just kick it in Madrid.
What are the requirements to be a language assistant?
No experience with children or background in education is necessary to apply for the program. It’s different from a traditional English teaching job because there is always a head teacher in the classroom with you. As long as you’re a native English speaker and have a college degree in SOMETHING, you’re eligible.
So, there you have it.
That’s my “brief” overview of the program. Sounds pretty sweet, right? I sure thought so, and I haven’t been disappointed.
Finding this program has been the answer to my prayers in the sense that it allows me to legally live in Spain. If you’re looking for a way to live abroad, travel around Europe and learn Spanish, this program is the way (and the truth and the light).
BUT, moving abroad is not for the faint of heart. The Ministry isn’t obligated to help you find a place to live, open a bank account, navigate the residency process, etc. This program isn’t for someone who needs their hand held.
When you accept your placement in the program, you need to be prepared to leave behind the familiar. It can be scary and overwhelming. My first week in Spain and the struggle to find an apartment had me asking myself if I’d made the right decision in moving abroad. I’m not too proud to admit that I cried myself to sleep a night or two. So yeah, there are going to be tough days. As someone who made it through to the other side though, the risk is worth the reward. I’ve honestly never been happier. The good days, the bad days–that’s what make it an adventure. I wouldn’t have it any other way.
If you’re interested in learning more about the North American Language and Culture Assistants program, check out its website for more information. The application period for the 2016-2017 school year is open now!