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Mountains, Missions and More: Exploring the Sierra Gorda

June 12, 2018 by Alex | Backpacking Brunette 12 Comments

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Mountains, Missions and More: Exploring the Sierra Gorda
Want to see a part of Mexico well off the beaten trail? Exploring the Sierra Gorda is worth the effort it takes to get to Querétaro's remote mountain range.

Images & Text Overlay: Backpacking Brunette

For the final leg of my sister’s trip to Mexico, we braved the twists and turns of the highway from Querétaro to Jalpan de Serra. The four-hour bus ride took us into the heart of Mexico’s Sierra Gorda. During our three days exploring the Sierra Gorda, we fell hard for the region’s breathtaking natural beauty. For travelers interested in seeing a part of Mexico well off the beaten trail, this remote mountain range is worth the extra effort it takes to get there. 

How to get there

From Querétaro

Buses depart daily from Querétaro’s Terminal de Autobuses (8:10 a.m.; 12 p.m.; 3:10 p.m.). The journey takes anywhere from three hours and 15 minutes to four hours and 15 minutes. A round-trip ticket on Primera Plus costs $719 MXN ($36 USD). A one-way ticket costs $326 MXN ($16 USD). If purchased online, you’ll receive an e-ticket via email but will still need to go to the counter for a physical ticket the day of your trip. At that time, the attendant will print your return ticket as well.

From Jalpan’s Central de Autobuses, buses leave daily for Querétaro (5 a.m.; 2 p.m.; 5 p.m.). According to Primera Plus the return journey takes three hours and 30 minutes.

>> Planning a trip to Mexico? Don’t forget Oaxaca! Check out this Puerto Escondido guide for everything you need to know about Mexico’s best Pacific Coast beaches! <<

The bus ride to and from Jalpan is not for the faint of heart. Usually, I sleep on long bus journeys, but this particular trip had me peering out the window over the edge of the steep mountainsides almost the entire way. The winding two-lane highway doesn’t really allow for speeding or passing, but locals (and crazy Mexican bus drivers) find a way. My sister, who is prone to motion sickness, experienced some nausea. Roaming livestock and stray dogs add to the peril. Personally, this isn’t a trip I would feel comfortable making at night.

From the bus station to the center

Jalpan’s Central de Autobuses isn’t far from the center, but the route isn’t particularly pedestrian-friendly. The 10-minute cab ride costs $30 MXN ($1.50 USD).

Want to see a part of Mexico well off the beaten trail? Exploring the Sierra Gorda is worth the effort it takes to get to Querétaro's remote mountain range
Untouched nature awaits in the Sierra Gorda!

Where to stay

Hotel Misión Jalpan

For my recent trip to the Sierra Gorda, I chose this hotel for its central location. Hotel Misión Jalpan (Av. Fray Junípero Serra s/n) is directly across the street from the town’s 18th-century Franciscan mission. Rooms are clean and comfortable. The second-floor room I shared with my sister had two queen beds, a ceiling fan and air conditioning. We ate most of our meals in the hotel’s restaurant, which is something I’d normally feel bad about, but it’s one of the most popular joints in town.

Price per night: $884 MXN ($44 USD)

Hotel Maria del Carmen

When I started planning this trip to do with my sister, Colby, during her time in Mexico, I initially planned on staying at the Hotel Maria del Carmen (Independencia 8) since it’s among the town’s most budget-friendly options. However, when immediate online booking wasn’t available, I went with different accommodation. Our first night in Jalpan, we ended up checking out this hotel’s restaurant in order to use the WiFi (my cell phone had zero service and our hotel’s WiFi was on the fritz). Their WiFi is fast, and their beer was cold. The hotel is big and seemed pretty empty. If you decide to visit the Sierra Gorda last minute, you may be able to just show up at Hotel Maria del Carmen and get a room.

Price per night: Contact hotel for promotions

Rustic cabins and camping

Both in the town center and along the highway, I saw multiple signs advertising cabañas rusticas (rustic cabins) in the area surrounding Jalpan. Our tour guide mentioned they are popular among couples and groups exploring the Sierra Gorda by car. If you’re looking for something different, this option might be up your alley. Traditional campsites are also available near Cuatro Palos, Cascada El Chuveje and Río Escanela.

Want to see a part of Mexico well off the beaten trail? Exploring the Sierra Gorda is worth the effort it takes to get to Querétaro's remote mountain range.
I snapped this picture right outside our room at Hotel Misión Jalpan! An attentive, professional staff keeps the hotel, including the pool area, well-maintained for guests.

Getting around

The easiest and most efficient way to get around the Sierra Gorda is by car. Just be sure the driver is comfortable on mountain roads and has the necessary patience for long, slow ascents and descents. When you leave the highway, the secondary roads taking you to the region’s most popular spots are unpaved and rocky. Go too fast, and you’re just asking for a flat tire. The next time I visit the Sierra Gorda, I plan on first renting a car in Querétaro. One local told me travel by bus and taxi is possible, but since I’ll be with my boyfriend who I trust driving, I prefer the freedom of our own set of wheels.

If you don’t want to rent a car but still wish to visit the Sierra Gorda, I suggest finding a private tour operator that provides transportation. With the help of Soy Sierra Gorda, we were able to make the most of our three days in the Sierra Gorda sans car.

You may also like: 7 Reasons to Visit Querétaro
Want to see a part of Mexico well off the beaten trail? Exploring the Sierra Gorda is worth the effort it takes to get to Querétaro's remote mountain range
Exploring the Sierra Gorda with my sister has been one of the highlights of my time in Mexico so far! Check out the view from Mirador Cuatro Palos!

What to do

Take an adventure tour

Wanting to make the most of our time in the Sierra Gorda, I researched tour operators and, ultimately, went with a recommendation from my neighbor: Soy Sierra Gorda. A month before the trip, I contacted the company via the What’s App number on their website. Originally, I wanted to do the cañonismo (canyoning) tour, but since it required a group of at least four people, I decided on the “Mirador 4 Palos, Río Escanela” tour.

For $900 MXN ($45 USD) per person, the price included transportation for the day, a guide, entrance fees, lunch and insurance. In order to reserve my spot, Soy Sierra Gorda asked for a 50% deposit sent via bank transfer. All communication was done through What’s App.

In Sept. 2022, I had my most off the beaten path adventure in the Sierra Gorda de Queretaro to date!

On the day of the tour, my sister and I met our guide in the town center. We arrived 15 minutes prior to the 9 a.m. start time in order to fill out some paperwork and pay the remaining balance. Our guide, Vicky, was friendly and easy-going. She had recently joined the company but has lived in the Sierra Gorda her entire life. A former paramedic and ambulance driver, Vicky had no trouble navigating the bumpy back roads. The three of us communicated in Spanish (I did the translating), but Vicky told me some of the other guides speak English.

The tour took us to two gems of the Sierra Gorda: Puente de Dios and Mirador Cuatro Palos. The highlight for my sister was swimming in the crystal clear Río Escanela while I enjoyed the steep climb up to Mirador Cuatro Palos. We both loved stuffing our faces with gorditas and quesadillas at the roadside restaurant we stopped at for lunch. In all, the tour lasted approximately seven hours. It’s a great value for the money, and I relished exploring the Sierra Gorda without having to worry about driving.

Note: I received no compensation for this short review of my tour with Soy Sierra Gorda. 

Want to see a part of Mexico well off the beaten trail? Exploring the Sierra Gorda is worth the effort it takes to get to Querétaro's remote mountain range.
On our tour with Soy Sierra Gorda, we had the chance to swim in Río Escanela. It was cold but refreshing!

Eat soup

Okay, this one is a bit of a joke between me and my sister. Despite hot temperatures, we found ourselves eating soup almost every night for dinner. Perhaps we were dehydrated and craving sodium?! It could have just been that Misión Jalpan’s restaurant had really good soup. I recommend the consomé de pollo (chicken soup with rice) and sopa azteca (tortilla soup). Not crazy enough for soup when it’s 90 degrees outside? Order the guacamole or sopes (thick corn tortillas topped with beans, chicken and veggies).

You may also like: A Day Trip to Bernal
Want to see a part of Mexico well off the beaten trail? Exploring the Sierra Gorda is worth the effort it takes to get to Querétaro's remote mountain range.
The mission of Santiago de Jalpan is one of five 18th-century Franciscan missions in the Sierra Gorda. The face is hand-carved stone, and wow, the detail is incredible!

Splash around in Presa de Jalpan

On our last day in Jalpan, we had a few hours to kill before catching the bus and decided to check out the town’s reservoir.  It’s an approximately 30-minute walk from the center, and if you set out midday like we did, bring your swimsuit! The dam gets water from Río Escanela, and we saw several people swimming. Others were out in canoes and kayaks. On one shore, there’s a little campground with what looked like a public boat launch, grills, picnic tables and a concession stand. Since we had to catch our bus, we weren’t able to spend much time there, but Presa de Jalpan seems like a nice place for an afternoon picnic and swim.

How to get there 

  • From Hotel Misión Jalpan, walk through the plaza keeping the mission of Santiago de Jalpan on your right.
  • When you exit the plaza, continue straight.
    • The street will take you downhill then up a flight of stairs.
  • At the top of the stairs, continue in the same direction for two blocks. Then, take a right.
    • Hope you’re ready for some uphill walking!
  • As you near the top of the hill, the road will start to curve.
    • Keep an eye out for a cabaña-type restaurant with a thatched roof. Take a left.
  • At this point, you should start to see signs with arrows indicating which way to go.
  • During my visit, crews were busy paving the dirt road. In case the job is still underway, I recommend closed-toe shoes for walking.
  • When you see the campground, turn left and walk through the parking lot. It’s a straight shot to the water.
Want to see a part of Mexico well off the beaten trail? Exploring the Sierra Gorda is worth the effort it takes to get to Querétaro's remote mountain range.
Even if you don’t have a car, visiting Presa de Jalpan is easy! It’s a 30-minute walk from the city center.

Additional information

Packing tips

Footwear

For the short treks I did, hiking boots weren’t necessary. I managed just fine with tennis shoes. You may also want water shoes since the river bottom is quite rocky.

Clothing

Many parts of the trails we hiked were shaded, and it was quite windy on the mountaintop. Even though I was sweating my butt off in Jalpan, I wish I would have had a sweatshirt or light jacket for exploring the Sierra Gorda.

Cell service

I have service through AT&T, and it stopped working on the bus ride from Querétaro. The tour guide told me Movistar and Telcel work in the mountains.

Money exchange

Bring what you think you need or be ready to withdraw cash from an ATM because the only place in town that exchanges money, according to our hotel, is a jewelry store in the main plaza. Dólar wasn’t open on Saturday morning, so we didn’t get to test that out.

Want to see a part of Mexico well off the beaten trail? Exploring the Sierra Gorda is worth the effort it takes to get to Querétaro's remote mountain range.
Jalpan’s center is small but quaint. This mountain town makes a great base for exploring the Sierra Gorda!

Interested in exploring the Sierra Gorda? What do you look for in an off the beaten path destination?

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Everything you need to know to explore the Sierra Gorda mountains in Mexico!
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Filed Under: Central Mexico

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Roman @ RimsNdTires says

    June 20, 2018 at 8:20 pm

    Hi, Alex! Such a brilliant post!
    I wish I have more time to travel. But Siera Gorda is definitely worth visiting.
    Thank you for the advice about choosing the cell phone operator.
    It may help in case of occasional emergency.
    Roman @ RimsNdTires recently posted…Best Snow Tire for Trucks. Unmatchable Winter TiresMy Profile

    Reply
    • Alex Wittman says

      June 22, 2018 at 4:37 am

      Hi Roman! There’s nothing like some time in the mountains to refresh oneself! I’m so glad you found the post helpful, and I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment. Thanks for reading!
      Alex Wittman recently posted…The Truth About Working From HomeMy Profile

      Reply
      • Anonymous says

        August 30, 2018 at 5:31 pm

        Alex than you for sharing all the information that we need to know before planning our trip?

        Reply
        • Alex Wittman says

          August 31, 2018 at 9:01 am

          I am so glad you found the information helpful! Enjoy your trip 🙂

          Reply
  2. Amy Acevedo says

    September 12, 2018 at 6:40 pm

    We are headed to this area in a few weeks. Can we get away with just a regular rental car or should we upgrade to a jeep?
    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Alex Wittman says

      September 15, 2018 at 2:05 pm

      Hi Amy! I would consider upgrading to a Jeep. In order to get to Puente de Dios and Mirador Cuatro Palos, you’ll need to drive on some pretty steep dirt roads with lots of bumps and potholes. If a Jeep is in your budget, I highly recommend it. Happy travels!
      Alex Wittman recently posted…What To Know Before You Go: Camino de SantiagoMy Profile

      Reply
  3. Joop van Dijk says

    January 4, 2019 at 8:25 pm

    Hi Alex,

    Looking for ways to visit the Sierra Gorda by myself using public transport I came across your blog. I’m travelling in Mexico for about 5 months now and always get where I want using local transport instead of tours.

    Do you know if there’s any mini van transport from Jalpan (or maybe there’s a better base?) further into the Sierra, from where I can set off walking?

    Thanks from… Querétaro.

    Joop.

    Reply
    • Alex Wittman says

      January 12, 2019 at 10:37 am

      Hi Joop,

      I hope your Mexico travels are going well, and I’m excited to hear you’re planning on visiting the Sierra Gorda. As the region’s largest city, I’m guessing Jalpan will be your best bet as a base. While I was there, I didn’t use any public transportation other than a bus between Pinal de Amoles and Jalpan. I doubt you’ll be able to glean much info as far as schedules from the internet and think you’ll need to actually be on the ground to see what’s available. All that being said, I say go for it! Especially, if you have some Spanish skills. The people are very friendly, and I’m sure will be willing to help you. Taxis are cheap, and if you’re unable to find a bus, I’m sure you can negotiate with a taxi driver to drop you where you need to go.

      Hope this helps! Safe travels!
      Alex Wittman recently posted…How To Learn A Language Online With italkiMy Profile

      Reply
  4. ins0mniac says

    June 17, 2019 at 8:18 pm

    Thanks so much for such an informative post. We are planning to visit in late November. Is it too cold/inaccessible at that time ? We know zero Spanish. Can we get by ?

    Reply
    • Alex Wittman says

      August 6, 2019 at 6:21 pm

      It definitely won’t be cold during the day, but you’ll want to bring something warm to wear at night. Since you don’t know any Spanish, I suggest setting up a tour with the company I mentioned in the post. When I did the tour, they said they have English-speaking guides as well!

      Reply
  5. Derek Larson says

    June 27, 2022 at 12:18 am

    Alex, nice write-up. I’m a guide in Jalpan de Serra. If you ever want to do some real backpacking in the Sierra Gorda, let me know. I go to places you won’t find online.

    Reply
    • Alex | Backpacking Brunette says

      September 7, 2022 at 8:44 pm

      Very cool, Derek! I just went to Sotano del Barro this past weekend!

      Reply

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38 shares