What to do near Barra de Navidad & Costalegre Jalisco: incredible beaches, where to stay, places to eat & more!
Like many people who live in Guadalajara, my idea of going to the beach is visiting Puerto Vallarta. While there are certainly lots of awesome things to do in Puerto Vallarta, this particular city & its surrounding area isn’t the only stretch of Jalisco’s coast worth getting to know. In early Feb. 2024, I traveled to Costalegre which is the name given to the beaches, capes & bays between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo (a port city in the Mexican state of Colima).
My mother joined me for this trip to Costalegre—a sort of homecoming for her since she spent a lot of time in the region back in the late 70s and early 80s. I actually have a photo of her waterskiing on Laguna Barra de Navidad! According to my mom, the area has changed in some significant ways (the new malecón de Melaque really wowed her), however, that magical Mexican beach town charm remains.
We spent six days based in Melaque which was a good jumping off point for exploring the Costalegre Jalisco. I could kick myself for taking so long to visit this part of Mexico, but better late than never, right? 🥴 In my opinion, the drive to Costalegre is much easier than the one to Puerto Vallarta, and I hope I’m able to get back soon.
After reading this post, you will know:
- Best things to do Melaque
- Where to stay in town
- The name of my ✨new favorite beach in Mexico✨
- Must-know travel tips for Costalegre
- & more!
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How to Get to Melaque, Mexico
Travelers visiting the Costalegre from outside of Mexico should investigate flight options into Manzanillo. Depending on the time of year, you can find flights to Manzanillo from international destinations including Los Angeles, Dallas, Houston, Phoenix, Montreal, Toronto & Calgary. This part of Mexico is popular with Canadians—perhaps that’s due to the direct flights or it could be the reason for them 🐓🥚
From Manzanillo International Airport, you can rent a car or hire a taxi. The drive takes around 30 minutes. Buses to Melaque depart from Manzanillo, but keep in mind that from the airport the Central de Autobuses de Manzanillo is a 45-minute trip in the opposite direction that you’re trying to go.
Driving from Guadalajara to Melaque
One of the reasons we decided to buy a car in Mexico was for trips to the beach. I drove to Melaque from Guadalajara, and the journey took a little over four hours with stops.
If you decide to drive to Melaque from Guadalajara, take the toll road (cuota). You’ll spend around $400 MXN (more than half the cost of the tolls to Puerto Vallarta) and travel along fairly well-maintained roads. The freeway (libre) is almost an hour slower thanks to all the topes (speed bumps) and the windy mountain roads.
Bus from Guadalajara to Melaque
Another option for how to get from Guadalajara to Melaque is the bus. Primera Plus has daily routes with stops in Melaque. The journey takes around six hours. First-class bus travel in Mexico is one of my favorite ways to get around as it’s comfortable, convenient & affordable.
Just take care when selecting the bus terminal for your departure from Guadalajara as there are several in the city. We were going to take the bus from Guadalajara to Melaque, but I purchased the ticket for Central Nueva and showed up at Terminal Tlaquepaque…the mixup is the reason we decided to drive instead.
Best Things to Do in Melaque, Mexico
In this next section, I will share the best things to do in Melaque and the surrounding area. If you’re trying to decide where to base yourself in the Costalegre, Melaque and Barra de Navidad are two solid options.
The two towns are close in distance and very similar. Melaque is a little cleaner and quieter while Barra de Navidad seemingly has slightly more in the way of nightlife. Both Melaque and Barra de Navidad have taxis and buses to help you get around the Costalegre.
Walk along the malecón
Completed in 2021, the new malecón in Melaque is one of the towns most impressive features. The cement boardwalk starts at the end of the beach and follows the curve of the bay. The red bridge near the RV park marks the beginning of the boardwalk. You can reach it walking through town or following the water’s edge—just be sure to bring shoes since walking barefoot on the cement isn’t ideal.
Benches line the walkway making this a great spot to sit and contemplate the bay perhaps while enjoying your morning coffee. There’s also an amphitheater, and while the acoustics are likely a little questionable, the backdrop is undeniably impressive. Near the end of the malecón, you can tackle the stairs or choose the inclined ramp up to the overlook for an incredible view of Bahía de Navidad.
Because there isn’t much shade to speak of along the malecón, I recommend doing this walk in the early morning or close to sunset to avoid the heat of the day. From the bridge, it took us about 15 minutes to reach the end of the walkway. There is a set of stairs that takes you down to a rocky beach if you’d like to walk a bit further.
Beach hop along the Costalegre
Although driving to Costalegre from Guadalajara wasn’t my original plan, it worked out for the best. Having our own set of wheels made it much easier to explore the beaches, capes and bays that make up this underrated stretch of Mexican coastline. If you find yourself in this part of Mexico without a vehicle, utilize public transportation and/or taxis to beach hop.
The first beach we experienced in Costalegre was Playa de Melaque. This sheltered beach is mostly flat which makes it good for walking. Even not-so-confident swimmers can enjoy the water here as the sandy, shallow bottom let’s you walk into the surf a ways. Along the beach, there are lots of restuarants and bars where you can set up shop for the days as long as you meet the consumo mínimo (usually around $200 MXN).
Ambitious walkers and runners can follow Playa de Melaque until it turns into Playa Navidad in Barra de Navidad. The water here is much rougher, but the waves means its one of the better spots for surfing (I saw one person out on their board). Playa Navidad is also a good place to see the sunset. Unlike Playa de Melaque, the view out into the Pacific Ocean is largely unobstructed.
Less than a 10-minute drive from Melaque is Playa Cuastecomates. On the way there, I passed some bikers, but if you choose to ride over there from Melaque, just know that the road has a few hills and not much of a shoulder. The little town has accommodation and dining options—although based on its size, I imagine it’s even quieter than the already quiet Melaque at night. When you get close to the beach, people will be in the street waving you down for their beach restaurant. This is the most convenient parking option and doesn’t cost anything extra.
The next section in this post is dedicated to my favorite Costalegre beach (perhaps my favorite beach in all of Mexico), but first, here are a few more popular beaches in the region that I hope to check out on my next visit:
- La Manzanilla: The bus from Melaque takes approximately 20 minutes. This long, flat beach is ideal for walking & the water is safe for swimming. The town of La Manzanilla is another good option to make your base in the Costalegre. Just know that it’s even smaller than Melaque and doesn’t have its own ATM. Another word of warning: Don’t confuse La Manzanilla & Manzanillo!
- Boca de Iguanas: The most popular camping beach in Jalisco, the well-maintained campsites have electricity and bathrooms. It can accommodate large recreational vehicles. A few simple restaurants feed visitors.
- Arroyo Seco: For a secluded beach experience, check out Playa Chica and Playa Grande. The former is virtually undeveloped while the latter has a few restaurants. If you plan to spend the day at Playa Chica, bring your own shade as well as a boogie board for playing in the waves. This beach is also popular with surfers who wild camp on the sand.
Spend the day at Playa Tenacatita
This beach is so amazing that it warrants it’s own section. A 45-minute drive from Melaque, trust me when I say that Playa Tenacatita is worth every pothole on the curvy-as-hell road. When Google Maps told me we’d arrived at our final destination, I thought we’d somehow teleported to Baja California Sur. Playa Tenacatita reminded me of the world-famous Playa Balandra near La Paz (higher praise doesn’t exist).
We parked our car in front of Mariscos La Matraka. This no-frills beach bar run by Brenda & her father served up the best huachinango (red snapper) that I ate during my Costalegre trip—which is saying something considering my mom & I shared a fish for lunch every single day. Given its location on one of the best beaches in Mexico, the prices here are a steal. A whole day here with multiple nonalcoholic beverages and a huge big fish lunch only cost us $350 MXN.
The clear, calm water is perfect for swimming. Bring your snorkel gear to check out the tide pools near the edge of the bay which are teeming with marine life. While you’re at it, pack your binoculars to better monitor the horizon for whales. On our second day here, we saw a whale breaching.
The closest town to this magnificent beach is El Rebalsito which has a small store and some accommodation options (most of which you can’t find online). Brenda shared the contact information for the house she rents out in town. You can message her on WhatsApp for more information: +52 3323 514 288.
Listen to live music
When I told a friend of mine that I was planning a trip to Melaque, she informed me that the vibe is “spring break for 70-year-olds.” She wasn’t wrong. The town is popular with retirees, but just because they’re collecting their pensions that doesn’t mean they don’t like to party. Many of the establishments in town cater to foreigners with musical performances in English.
Las Hamacas regularly hosts live acts at its beach restaurant. During our trip, a cover band got the crowd dancing with soft rock hits from the 70s, 80s and 90s. We also stumbled upon live music at The Wok Place—another rock cover band & a talented harmonica player. Based on our evening in Barra de Navidad, it seems to have even more options for live music.
Shop the weekly flea market
Every Wednesday from approximately 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., you can shop the Melaque tianguis (flea market). This weekly event is popular with locals making it a good opportunity to get plugged into the community if you plan to stay in Melaque for more than just a few days. Vendors set up around Villa Obregón and sell everything from handicrafts and souvenirs to traditional snacks and household items.
Visit Barra de Navidad
On our last night in Melaque, we hopped in the car & drove over to Barra de Navidad. On the way over, I saw people biking between the two towns. A one-way taxi costs around $50 MXN for the less than 10-minute trip. There are also buses that frequently travel between the Melaque and Barra de Navidad.
The best time of day to visit Barra de Navidad is in the late afternoon/early evening right before sunset. This gives you time to wander through the town and walk along the malecón (not as nice as the one in Melaque but still worth a visit) before catching the sunset at one of the beachfront restaurants or bars. The location of Barra on the bay allows for an unobstructed view out into the Pacific Ocean.
If your looking for a place to eat dinner in Barra de Navidad, check out El Manglito (Av. Veracruz 17, Centro). Based on the size of this restaurant, I’m confident it could accommodate a large group even without a reservation. Our table was at the very back of the restaurant on the dock overlooking the lagoon. Mariachis came through and performed for several tables before a singing duo took to the small stage. We shared an order of guacamole and a molcajete de camarones which came out piping hot and continued to bubble for more than 15 minutes.
Charter Fishing
Deep sea sport fishing is one of the most popular and best things to do in Melaque—most excursions leave from just up the road in Barra de Navidad. During our trip, my mom recounted fond memories of catching marlin during here time here back in the late 70s and early 80s.
Tour companies advertise around the malecón in Barra de Navidad with most advertising their offerings on easy-to-read signage. For the most part, prices are set, but if you’re thinking about booking multiple days, it never hurts to ask about a discount.
Where to Eat in Melaque
We arrived to Melaque in the early evening hoping to grab a bite to eat on the beach and watch the sunset only to learn that most restaurants on the water close their kitchens early. For any meal other than lunch, you will likely need to venture into town. The blocks around the plaza principal have dining options ranging from traditional Mexican breakfast in the morning to late-night tacos.
Rafaello Snack Bar Pizzas a la Leña
We stumbled upon this cafe our first morning in Melaque. The chalkboard outside was advertising desayunos, and the simple breakfast packages were just what we had in mind. I ordered huevos a la mexicana (scrambled eggs prepared with tomato, onions & jalapeño) which came with beans and fresh tortillas.
The breakfast package came with cafe de olla, and I added on a fresh carrot-orange juice that was prepared at the little stand next door. Our waiter was very friendly, and the food came out fast both times we ate here.
The Wok Place
Restaurants with fresh veggies on the menu can be tough to find in a Mexican beach town. If you find that you need a break from fried fish and tacos, check out The Wok Place. Located above a flower shop a block over from the plaza principal, this Thai restaurant is one of Melaque’s hidden gems. We tried the papaya salad, chicken lettuce wraps & pad Thai—all of which were delicious.
Ava’s
Popular with foreigners, Ava’s is an all-day restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. At first glance, I thought the menu looked pretty basic and didn’t expect much from the food I ordered. However, my shrimp fajitas arrived not only hot but also well-seasoned. Too often, fajitas just taste like the oil they were prepared in, but these were truly tasty.
Mariscos Mazatlan
This little seafood spot was just down the street from where we stayed, and while I didn’t get to personally try it (I was too busy eating my mariscos at the beach), several people recommended it to me.
Mariscos Mazatlan’s menu includes ceviche and aguachile (ceviche’s spicy Mexican cousin) plus Baja-style shrimp and fish tacos. There are a few tables inside as well as seating on the street, but make sure you get here early since the restaurant closes at 6 p.m.
Las Hamacas Beach Restaurant
Guests at Las Hamacas Bungalows get a 10% discount at the beach restaurant. When I booked our accommodation, I had no idea this was such a party spot! The Tuesday and Wednesday of our stay, the live music acts drew quite the crowd. Fortunately, we’d secured our table on the sand early in the day and put in our order for huachinango (red snapper) before the restaurant got really busy.
As with other bars and restaurants along the beach, Las Hamacas’ kitchen closes early. If you want to arrive early in the day, just know that it doesn’t open until 11 a.m. Non-guests of the hotel are welcome, but you’ll need to meet a consumo minimo of $200 MXN for use of the table, chairs and umbrella.
Where to Stay in Melaque
When I was in Melaque, it seemed that most of the buildings around town were dedicated to either feeding tourists or housing them. As with many small Mexican beach towns though, not all accommodation options have an online listing. Many places limit advertising to a hand-painted sign with a phone number and email address.
Unless you show up Christmas week or Easter week, I’m confident you could arrive without a reservation and find a place to stay in Melaque. However, if you prefer to make your plans in advance, here are a few accommodation options to check out:
Las Hamacas Bungalows
My mom and I shared a “bungalow” here which was actually just a one-bedroom apartment with two queens beds and a small kitchen. Supposedly, the room we stayed in can sleep up to five guests, but it would be pretty tight quarters and the futon didn’t seem all that comfy. The room had everything we need (no more, no less), and the AC worked like a charm.
I should also note that the wifi didn’t reach in our room and still wasn’t all that strong in the common areas. Instead, I relied on my cellular data.
The hotel has a pool in the interior courtyard and access to the beach. I’d say the main draw for staying at Las Hamacas is the on-site restaurant for which guests get a 10% discount. The restaurant is only open for lunch, but the hotel is within walking distance of lots of places to eat.
Click here to book your stay at Las Hamacas Bungalows
Posada Pablo de Tarso
I saw this hotel while out walking on Playa de Melaque, and it caught my eye because the swimming pool had a view of the ocean. The stretch of ocean in front of the hotel is slightly rougher, so if you stay here, you might need to walk toward the Melaque malecón for calmer waters.
Like Las Hamacas, Posada Pablo de Tarso has apartments with multiple beds. Reviews on Booking say that the wifi works well and the hotel is very clean.
Click here to book your stay at Posada Pablo de Tarso
Things to Know About Melaque, Mexico
Before I wrap up this post, here are a few very important things to know before visiting Melaque, Mexico. Oh, and if you have any questions about Melaque not answered in this post, please feel free to leave a comment below.
Melaque Beach Shark Attack
In Dec. 2023, a young woman died after a shark bit her while she was swimming just offshore at Playa de Melaque. Her death was an absolute tragedy, but if this event has you rethinking a trip to Melaque, remember that this was the first shark attack in Melaque in more than 60 years. Statistically, you’re more likely to die from a lightning strike than a shark attack.
High Season in Melaque
The busiest times of year in Melaque are Christmas week and Easter week, although technically high season is November through March. We visited in February, and despite there being two months left in high season, the town was pretty quiet. I didn’t have any issues getting seated at a restaurant without a reservation or securing a table in the shade at the beach.
Using ATMs in Melaque
Prior to my trip, a friend warned me that the ATMs in Melaque sometimes run out of cash. While this didn’t happen to my knowledge during our stay, we did see quite the line for the Citibanamex ATM on Gómez Farias near our hotel. It’s important that you have cash on hand since many of the restaurants and business don’t accept credit cards or (if they do) make you pay an additional fee to use one.
Getting Around Melaque
Since I drove to Melaque from Guadalajara, I didn’t need to utilize public transportation during my stay. However, there is a local bus that runs between Melaque and Barra de Navidad. You can also take a bus to nearby La Manzanilla or Cihuatlán—the latter of which is the biggest “city” in the region.
Melaque itself is very walkable, but take care where you step since the sidewalks are uneven in parts and the cobblestones slippery when covered in dust.
Do you need to know Spanish to get by in Melaque?
Due to its popularity with foreigners from Canada and the United States, many people with jobs in the tourism industry speak at least a little English. That being said, don’t just assume that everyone in Melaque speaks English (that one of the major DON’Ts for traveling in Mexico). You definitely don’t need to be a fluent Spanish speaker to get by in Melaque, but knowing some basic phrases will go along way.
- Hello – Hola
- Goodbye – Adiós
- Please – Por favor
- Thank you – Gracias
- Cheers – Salud
- With permission (for when you need to get past someone) – Con permiso
- Do you speak English? – ¿Habla inglés?
People will appreciate the effort and be more willing to help you.
Final Thoughts on Things to do in Melaque, Mexico
Our trip to Melaque came together at the last minute, but even with limited time to plan, our week in Costalgre was one of my most enjoyable beach vacations in recent memory. This part of Mexico is wildly underrated. If you’re looking for somewhere quiet to relax and recharge, Melaque is just the ticket.
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